Whithersoever thou goest

For Elenn’s last day, she offered to take Anya and me on a fjord cruise. We had actually scanned the calendar, and this was the open day after my return to health and after the PhD seminars. Previously, we looked at the forecast and thought there was a chance it wouldn’t be raining all day. So, I notified Anya’s teacher that she wouldn’t be in class, and we bused to Stavanger.

We arrived and found out that we were the only three pre-registered, and they require a minimum of 15 to go. We were talking with a couple from London, and together counting the passengers. At 10 minutes to departure, we were up to 13. So, we were thinking about buying extra tickets to make it go. Fortunately, enough showed up, and we took off.

We had amazing weather! Blue sky with just a few clouds, requiring us to dig out our sun glasses. (I was hopeful and packed them). We ate a picnic lunch on board with wonderful scenery.

The 3-hour cruise included a pause at the base of pulpit rock, one of the most famous tourist hikes, with close to 400,000 visitors each year! The 1096 foot elevation makes it a nice hike in about 4 hours round trip. (I plan to do this in early April when my niece visits. Right now the tourist trips aren’t offered during the off season.)

At the end of our trip, we visited the beautiful Hengjangefossen (waterfall).

We got so close that the crew could collect this pristine water for us to drink.

We got right underneath!

And got wet!

Even on our way back to Stavanger, the clouds started rolling in, and a light rain started. How fortunate to have the stunning blue sky on most of our cruise! We headed home, stopping for a bit at some tourist shops, and Elenn cooked dinner. (For those that know Elenn, this is truly a miraculous transformation in the past 6 years!) After dinner, we watched Becoming Jane, with Anne Hathaway, portraying Jane Austen in this biopic. Then, Elenn finished her packing.

We were up a bit early for a 7:30 am pick up by Tina’s husband, Alessandro, and youngest son. We are so blessed by this family! Tina was off with her oldest son at a judo competition, but made sure we had a lift to the airport.

After being dropped off, I went in with Elenn, and because of a bad knee, she had wheelchair accommodation. I was able to go through security and be with her right up to the gate. Though, we made a detour through duty-free and picked up some Skittles for Anya. We haven’t seen them in the shops outside duty-free.

I took the bus back home reading some Maasai ethnography, continued with laundry, catching up on emails, and walked to the store in the rain with bottles to recycle. (About 2 grocery bags of non-collapsed bottles was redeemed for $6.10). To and from the store, I ventured out trying new roads (including the Edvard Munch road) and paved footpaths. I’ve learned to wear rain pants for these outings, and despite the rain, I saw some beautiful and colorful houses with some nice views of this fjord, which ends at Sandness.

Wow! My last post was March 1. A lot has happened in the past few days, so here’s the news.

Monday, March 2: Elenn started me on antibiotics, as she was concerned about bronchitis. The cough began to decrease (I’m almost 100% now). I felt well enough to take Elenn to the petroleum museum in Stavanger. I learned a lot! Elenn said it was “boring” (note the drill bit in the photo). You may also benefit by knowing that Elenn loves puns. I call it punishment!

On the way back to the bus, we stopped at my favorite tourist store in Stavanger, and Elenn picked up gifts for her family. I helped her find–and talk her into–a beautiful Norwegian sweater on the sale rack! It was a good deal. We finished watching The Hundred-Foot Journey and really enjoyed it (though I recognized the cultural dimensions were simplified, i.e. no clear religious references.)

Tuesday, March 3: Elenn and I went to visit a family friend, Miriam. She is still in her home on an island just north of Stavanger. It is connected by a bridge and the bus goes close to her home. Miriam brought out her wedding photo album, where my mom was maid of honor, my dad to the photos, and we saw a picture of cute Elenn in 1969 (and the back of my head). Miriam was Elenn’s favorite “auntie.” In the evening, I took Anya to the mall to do some grocery shopping, and she found an amazing price (even for Norway) on some black jeans that fit her. Elenn didn’t go as she wasn’t quite well.

Wednesday, March 4: My first night of sleep with more than 4 hours in a row! I actually slept 9 hours and felt like a new person! I went off to a supervision with Knut. He critiqued my chapter 3. He is so gracious in his critique, but he is very constructive and descriptive as to how to strengthen the argumentation. I feel so blessed, especially after an afternoon of a PhD seminar. At the seminar were 22 people, and 10 were from outside of Norway (Ethiopia, Madagascar, Brazil, Tanzania, Romania, Germany, USA, etc.) The keynote speaker was Harald Hegestad from Oslo, who has been working with empirical research in theological studies. I have read a short book on this, but I learned more on the rationale, benefits, and limitations during his presentation than the book. There was some good conversation too, which helped see the application for various students and their research.

Then two students presented some of their research, which was then critiqued. The first one had a bit of a harsh critique. That’s when I was so grateful to have Knut, as Knut helps guide his students with more than what some of these students are getting. So, they are not focused (4 research questions is unwieldy, Knut honed me down to one in my first month) or using the right approach for the research question. It was nice to interact with many PhD students, and Tina brought me home at about 9:00 pm to collapse into bed.

Thursday, March 5: The seminar started again at 8:15 am, but I couldn’t help get Anya ready for school and be there on time. I joined at 10:00 and heard 2 paper presentations with critique. One woman is doing a PhD project on the confirmation programs in the  Makane Jesu Church in Ethiopia, where she is from. One church she interviewed had the smallest class of 50 and the largest class of 700! Can you imagine a confirmation class of 700! Yes, Ethiopia is one of the fastest growing Lutheran churches in the world! Currently one out of every five Christians is in sub-Saharan Africa. By 2050, it is estimated that this will be one of every four!

After the seminar, the Maasai research project met for 1 hour of Hebrew Bible reading from 1 Samuel 1. Then my sister, Elenn, arrived to join us for the discussion of a book on the history of development in Maasailand. (Yes, Elenn made it on her own by bus!) After this Maasai discussion, Knut opened up the missionary museum and showed us some interesting things, but more importantly, gave us a bit of narrative of the history of the Norwegian Mission Society. At one time, the NMS ran the postal service in part of Madagascar as a service to the people. Knut is showing Elenn the NMS postage stamps.

We bused home, talking with the head archivist, who knew of my father’s work with the Lutheran Literature Society for the Chinese by name and newsletter! What an amazing mind. The MHS has one of 2 private archives which are supported by the government of Norway for the cultural and historical value. They ave 400,000 photos from these remote former “mission fields” going back to the late 1800s, so some researchers come to look at the photos. Knut said even those studying climate change compare the environmental changes from these photos.

Then we ended up meeting the head archivist at the bus stop and riding with him about 10 minutes. He stated that many of these photos are being archived in a joint project with Yale and a few others, which are stored at UCLA. Crazy! This little school in an impressive network!

Elenn then offered to treat us to dinner. Anya walked downtown to meet us at the mall close to the bus stand. There is the Big Horn Steak House in the mall which had a lunch menu that served late (dinner menu in another area). The food was reasonable for Norway at $18-22 an entree, and they all were very well prepared. My steak sandwich was beyond my expectations, so I was quite pleased. This was my favorite tasting meal I had since arriving, though other meals with friends have been cherished for their camaraderie.

After 5 days of poor sleep, I’m hopeful that this will be a good night. However, I was not well enough to go to church this morning, but Anya was wonderful and willing to be the guide to take my sister, Elenn. The plan was to go to the “Mexico” restaurant in the harbor area afterwards. Anya misses Chipotle more than anything else, so this was at least a hope of something Mexican. The website review called it “Norwegian Mexican,” but Anya doesn’t like things too spicy hot any way. However, it wasn’t open, so they went to another restaurant. Elenn had a great steak!

I stayed home and rested. I spent some time on the computer researching what tourist attractions are open in the off season. Then if they are open, what days, and then what hours, and finally, what’s the entrance fees.  Later, I got dinner ready. After coming from Pakistan, I’m trying to provide some form of pork each day, after a 2-month pork fast. However, tonight it was Persian chicken soup.

Elenn was cleaning out some things from Pakistan and brought some travel games, so after dinner, we played Othello, learning the game along the way. Anya one the first game, and then because there were two boards, she played two consecutive games with Elenn and me. The outcomes are unknown, as we paused the games.

We closed the evening streaming the movie The Hundred-Foot Journey. 

We got just to the critical part, and I stopped the movie to get Anya to bed. This is a great movie! It was tough to stop, but it is a school night. We’ll finish tomorrow.

Then I Skyped-in with my church’s mission team. We’re returning to Tanzania in July. This is our third trip, and the majority have been one or two times already, which is a testament to how meaningful our pilgrimages have been, as we share–and deepen–relationships with our hosts. It really is a blessing for us, and because we keep getting asked back, we seem to be a blessing too.

Oh, this one didn’t get sent! I found it in the draft folder

More Maasai today for me, with some Oral Liturature of the Maasai, which has been preserved by Naomi Kipury. I can only take so much of these, which I relayed to Anya mid-morning as she was working on her tapioca recipe. She asked why, so I relayed one to her about the crow who wanted to marry a woman. I paused at one point, and Anya prodded me on, so there was something going for this story. But by the time I finished, she had addressed so many of the same issues I had, like: Why didn’t she just climb down the tree and run away? How can a crow look like a human?

I read up on anthropological, historical, linguistic, and archaeological theories of the expansion of the Maasai from where and when, as well as different theories of ethnicity.

There was a bit more writing, and a contact with Jean and Marv, who are willing to read and critique the Maasai section. They know the Maasai and good writing, so it will be good to face their challenges.

Anya did some cooking and streaming Netflix.

I learned from NPR today that there are plans to make a new MacGyver series. Yea! We love MacGyver. But in the new series the lead will be a female. NPR was wondering if it would be an Indian woman, as there are so many engineers coming out of India! I found it interesting that MacGyver is big in many places in the “majority world” (formerly third-world, formerly two-thirds world), because his problem solving was done not with high-tech gadgetry, but with what is available and duct tape. Hey, Marv, they are inviting ideas from anyone all over the world to submit ideas. The top 5 get to collaborate on the pilot episode! I’m busy, otherwise, I’d suggest MacGuyver meets Monk in a female lead. I love the “community” concept of Monk where each person’s gifts are needed to bring out the best (and overcome the weaknesses) in the other.

Despite my wonder whether I should have droned on and on about my cough yesterday, it did stimulate an email from my friend Matt, from church (whose family is returning to Tanzania this fall). He is suffering from the same cough 9 time zones away. But now, I have someone to pray for in the midst of my discomfort, as it makes me more empathetic with Matt’s. (The Apostle Paul talked about this in 2 Corinthians 1.)

I was able to work from the desk and with a mostly clear head today, and so I was able to be quite productive. I’m so close from finishing the first draft of chapter 3. I was hoping to send it to Jean and Marv 2 days ago and have revisions for Knut by the end of the week if possible or at least by early Monday, when Knut returns from Madagascar. He really needs time to read it though. So, I’m pushing on tonight.

I did take a run to the airport due to the generosity of Tina. However, Elenn missed her connecting flight in Amsterdam. Anya and I arrived at the airport and no Elenn! I hadn’t set up my Norwegian phone to get email, so I tried to start there. It wouldn’t connect. I tried three times, adjusting settings that might help the connection. The 4th try worked to read that she had missed her flight. So, we went back home. I have to catch the last #9 bus at 8:14 to take the 33 minute ride to the airport and wait an hour for Elenn’s plane to arrive. At least I can work on my laptop. Then we’ll take at $60 taxi home.

Now the good stuff:

Anya had a fun time playing indoor field hockey (a contradiction in terms!) with a wiffle ball. She had a blast. Anya actually made a full week of school! Yea!

On the way home, she went to the store and picked up some needed groceries.

But the buzz is this dress. What colors is it?

Ok, I see them as white and gold. Anya sees them as blue and black. How bizarre.  Here’s more information, that I haven’t taken time to read.

http://www.wired.com/2015/02/science-one-agrees-color-dress/

So we had a good conversation over this as well as who we would cast instead of Russell Crowe in Les Mis.

Feel free to skip my whining about my battle with the flu and just go to the last 2 paragraphs about Anya. She’s way more interesting!

While I thought that maybe I had avoided the full brunt of this flu, the cough is pretty bad, not the worst I had (which actually was the night before Eric’s first brain surgery). I just can’t stop that little tickle in my throat. I’m even half way through that thyme extract cough syrup, which works well for about 8 minutes; about the time the horrible taste goes away. I’ve sipped a gallon of honey lemon tea, sucked on cough drops constantly–switching between the citrus and anise Fisherman’s Friend, and have breathed steam coming off the hot pot half a dozen times this afternoon alone. I’ve tried sleeping propped up with a pile of pillows, which seems to help a bit, but I still slept only half the night for the past two nights, and this evening is not looking good. My intercostal muscles (the ones between your ribs; I was pre-med once upon a time) are sore from a marathon of coughing. Ok, I’ll get well soon.

It has complicated life. There is little food in the house and little cash. Norwegian grocery stores need that computer chip (not the magnetic strip), so I’m waiting to get my Norwegian bank account set up for my research fellowship stipend. Knut should be back from Madagascar on Monday, so perhaps that will be the first opportunity. Until then, I can draw cash from some–but not all–ATMs with my Capital One card, so there is 0% foreign transaction fee. My BofA Visa (Alaska Airlines miles) is a 3% hit.

Another complication has been writing from bed between fevers and naps. It just isn’t as conducive as the desk set up with wireless keyboard. I think this afternoon was the last fever, so this is a good sign.

Tomorrow, my sister, Elenn’, arrives from Pakistan, where she goes for 2 months every year as a physician at Tank Christian Hospital, not too far from the Khyber Pass. So, I was going to take the bus and meet her, and then take the bus home, as the bus stop is about 2 blocks from our house. Ok, the house is 2 blocks uphill, but I planned to bungie her bag to my wheeled duffel bag and take my time. However, if I’m not much better tomorrow, that would do me in.

So, Tina to the rescue. I asked Tina if she’d be available and willing to help with an airport run. She is so kind. I did calculate a one-way taxi ride for the 14 miles, but $60+ was a bit of a deterrent. You see why the wheeled duffel on a free bus was appealing!?! My flexi pass on the Kolumbus system allows me to take 1 adult and up to 3 children with me after 5 pm and on the weekends. This is great for Saturday trips to the mall and Sunday trips to church.

Enough of my sob story.

Anya was off to school by herself and came home saying  volleyball in PE was actually enjoyable (compared to volleyball in high school in Bellevue). First, they didn’t keep score! She said, “These are teenagers!” incredulous that they weren’t the hyper competitive teenagers on the volleyball court in Bellevue. Then, she said they were very encouraging of everyone. Wow! Is this the socialism of Norway at work? Now, remember there are still very competitive folks out there–especially at the World Ski Championships in Sweden!

Finally, for the week after Easter break, the 9th graders spend an entire week in a job shadow or introductory career practicum experience. Due to Anya’s limited Norsk and our limited network, there are few options for us. So today, after getting approval from her teacher, I emailed the librarian and archivist at MHS and asked if there would be a possibility for her to help out. It would give some practical experience in preparation for what could be an on-campus job during college (despite MHS’s non-standard cataloging system). So, let’s see if that works out. If not, about my only other connection is Tina’s mom who is an administrator at the Stavanger Cathedral. That would be a fascinating location, but less career path opportunities, unless, “theology mom” and ministry rub off somehow!

Not too much exciting here with more fevers and flu. Anya has been very helpful.

Years ago–actually 2007–I attended my first Society of Biblical Literature and American Academy of Religion conference in San Diego. This is a HUGE conference with about 12,000 people in biblical and religious scholarship and academia attend. I was invited by my roommate, Beth, to attend the Oxford reception, as her doctorate is from Oxford. As she was chatting with friends and faculty, I sat with Jane Barr, the widow of James Barr, who had recently passed away. I believe she was visiting friends in California and so stopped by to see all her late husband’s colleagues.

As we were chatting, she relayed in a most distinguished British accent, “Oh James, I didn’t want him to worry at all about the home front; the cooking, the cleaning, the children, yes, I took care of it all.”

I realized that I will never be a James Barr–in so many ways–but with the reality that I was working and taking care of the home front. I don’t have the luxury of having the minutia of life managed by someone else to free me up to optimize my potential.

Now, I am glad that I have a primary role of being a mom. Anya is great joy (most of the time) and we typically get along well (not without bumps). I love the moments when Anya is oozing with commentary and perhaps spinning on the wood floor or singing songs from Broadway musicals. What joy! We’re pretty good travel partners too.

However, this sabbatical is a bit of being able to focus more on the work of the dissertation (when I don’t have the flu). I’m not working, I have less responsibilities at church and around the home. I don’t have a big social life here. And life slows down when you don’t have a car and have to walk and/or take the bus. It has taken a bit of time to figure out new systems and get in the groove. I was just feeling in the groove when the flu hit. Lord, have mercy.

Between fevers, thick headedness, and blahness, I tried working on the 75 pages of transcription (single spaced) from the 2013 interviews with my Maasai research participants with my annotations, color coding key concepts, and adding citations to the dissertation. I got only 1/3rd of the way through. Maybe I can get half way before the end of day.

I just saw an Economist video describing why the flu shot was only 23% effective this year. In case you’re interested, here’s the link:

http://www.economist.com/multimedia?bclid=1242934274001&bctid=4069229650001

Unfortunately, while so diligent in staying healthy while taking care of Anya, the flu hit me now. The good news is that I don’t have to take care of Anya, and I don’t seem to be hit as hard as Anya was. After a poor night of very little sleep, I’m still not able to focus much. I did some reading and watched a documentary I had on Maasai women made by a British anthropologist in the 1970s.

So, Anya went to school and off to the store to pick up some after school. It isn’t quite on the way home, but adds about half a mile to the walk home. Her friend from school went with her, as the store is not too far from her home. Anya was introduced to some Norwegian candy, which pleased her.

Did you realize that the World Ski Championships are going on? Here’s the link: http://www.fis-ski.com/ Today, the USA women earned a silver and a bronze for a total of 2 medals. (Yes, Norway is in the lead with 11 medals.)

I think this is the first day that I didn’t leave the house. Now, previously, I had spent all day in the house, but at least I put shoes on to walk the eight steps to the mailbox. Today, Anya didn’t want me to walk her to school, and she got the mail when she came home.

It was probably good to be inside as I have developed a sore throat and cough. I guess I get to use up the Norwegian cough syrup that Anya wouldn’t touch!

Anya is back to school. A friend had looked on line how to be welcoming to Americans. One item was don’t swear in front the Americans. I don’t have much to compare with between average American and Norwegian conversation, but this is good.

I spent most of the day going over my 54 pages of mostly single spaced transcriptions from the 2012 interviews with my Maasai research participants. This review with a fine-toothed comb helped me add specifics and broaden the sources for what I had drafted–and revised and revised and revised. I’m in one of the most spiral writing projects of my life. The hope is that at the end, it still has a sense of linear progression through the argumentation!

Tomorrow, I’ll go through the 2013 interviews in the same way, as it seems to work; it is thorough though slow. I guess that is good for the process. Fortunately, I’ll have Jean’s and Marv’s critiques and then Knut’s final weigh in, to help me understand how to revise it again!

I have some summary charts too, but I’m not sure if they will be utilized. I’ll let Knut give guidance.

Three tangential tidbits:

1) The Norsk word for the day is gjennom (YEh-nom, or how I hear it) which means “through,” as through the street or through the mud puddle

2) What is the product in these cans?

On dog food cans, you find dogs. On cat food cans, you find cats. What’s in these cans?

3) I counted at least 3 hail storms today, then multiple times of rain and multiple times of blue sky!