I was awakened by Ciwila bringing a thermos of chai and some bread, peanut butter, and jam for breakfast. I’m not quite in the early morning rhythm yet, but these folks know how to maximize the 12 hours of sunlight. I had a nice cup of chai with my breakfast, but I didn’t take a second cup. For days with big celebrations, it is good not to be well hydrated. Then, I had a nice dipper shower with water heated in the electric kettle. I prefer that to the shower in the guest house, as I can conserve water, and I know that the temperature will be constant.
Anya and I walked to church, arriving at about 9:30. I wore her Birkenstock sandals and had dress shoes in my backpack. There first service for students was close to the end. There was tea and bites (some food) for the wageni (guests), but I found a way to avoid the tea, because I knew a long service was ahead. I greeted many people, including Dr. Parsalaw, who Knut brought to Norway for the Maasai research group. He is the Vice Chancellor of Tumaini University Makumira. I also met him during my two weeks of research there in 2012. There would be several points of contact with Dr. Parsalaw during the day.
I also met Elizabeth, one of my former students.
Elizabeth was a very good student. She asked excellent questions, which is always a sign of a good student. She thanked me for my teaching as she did well in biology. She is now a CPA working for a NGO (non-profit) that works with microloans. She is doing well. We had a good talk later in the day, where I found out about her husband and two-year-old daughter. I asked her about being a Maasai young woman who comes from a tradition of arranged marriages where they have no say in the matter. Sometimes, they are promised when they are in utero! I’ve often wondered how they deal with finding a spouse when they don’t come from a dating culture. She was fine to share her story of meeting in a Maasai association in Arusha to help each other. They knew of each other for three years before they started a serious relationship. When she told her family there was a man in her life, they asked if he was Maasai. When she said he was, they were relieved and said OK.
The procession (with me among the honored guests, then the pastors, then the bishops and Pastor Nangole) started for the 10:00 am service. The service ended at 2:44! Yes, 4 hours and 44 minutes! I’m glad I didn’t have the second cup of tea. People did walk out on occasion for a bathroom break, but I was in my Maasai dress that jingles when one walks, and I was squished in the center of the pews with about 7 people to squeeze by. The guy next to me was a gentleman, and sat forward for much of the service, as there was not room for all of us to lean on the backrest. We alternated shoulder position. But he also shared his hymnbook and the found the right pages in the liturgy for me. Also, he had the Kiswahili Bible on his Chinese smart phone, so we could read the Psalm responsively. He was from the Diocese office.
I knew I was going to be asked to bring a greeting, which would probably be translated (it was, by Mr. Kwayu, a friend who is the Head of School of the neighboring secondary school). There is a clear hierarchical system, and I was just below Dr. Parsalaw. Whenever he was invited to do something, I had the position that was just next in the pecking order. Indeed, I didn’t expect that there would be such an honoring of me too. At a separate occasion, I was invited to come up with Anya and receive gifts for us and for my church, because of the partnership we’ve had since 2008.
After the service, people I didn’t know were just coming up to greet me and thank me. But also, all who I knew came up to me. (Jean and Marv, greetings from Nakaji, Janet, Elizabeth L., and others!).
When it was time for food, the manager of the church grabbed my hand, took me out of the lineup for food, and brought me to the hand washing station to be next at the food tables. This is very uncomfortable for me, but fortunately, I was being dragged along. I apologized to the people that I just cut in line in front of. This cutting in the food line actually happened twice in the food line, because after this meal at church, we were invited to Pastor Nangole’s house for another shorter service and a meal. Again, I was dragged into the line ahead of the wonderful choir. I had an opportunity to again apologize and also share my deep appreciation for their wonderful music. This is the best church choir I have heard in Tz.
Before he left, Bishop Masangwa came to greet me. While he was assistant bishop, he traveled with us for 5 days in north Maasailand, as the Bishop was ill. So, we got to know him a bit and his diplomacy and his humor. He is a faithful leader, and again I’m honored to have this greeting.
As you can imagine, Anya was bored silly in 4 hours and 44 minutes of a Kiswahili service. After lunch, would it be culturally appropriate to send her home and not show up at Pastor Nangole’s house? We asked David (our friend who drove us from the airport on Friday night). He said that Nangole would expect us as a pair.
So, we decided that David would take us to Nangole’s, and after Nangole had seen Anya, then Anya would go with David to our guest house to get one more bag for David to store for us. After the “kaky kaky” (which is a roasted goat that is served like a wedding cake, as there are few ovens, wedding cakes are rare and these special roasted goats reinforced by wire take the place of cakes), where we were called up with Dr. Parsalaw, Anya went off. I did get a Fanta passion with my meal. Yum!
Here’s a note about the food, the meat in particular. I’m pretty much an omnivore, though I do have things I don’t prefer, but generally it makes it easier to be a good guest. Anya is pretty picky about her meat, and prefers mostly poultry and good bits of meat without skin, gristle, or fat. There are very few pieces of meat in Maasailand that fit this description. I’m less picky, but there are things that I just can’t manage. I don’t mind goat, but my kaky kaky piece was half fat. Anya’s looked like a piece of gristle. It is good that I keep plastic bags in my backpack, as we tried to find the most delicate way to receive this piece of meat that would be very difficult to get down.
I stayed longer and talked with friends. I ended up with hopes for two times to meet in Arusha with friends and former students.
I walked home, removing my Maasai dress after leaving the gates as it was really, very dusty along the road. Some places had 6 inch dust banks! (I’m thankful for nose hairs in Africa!)
I met the Deputy Head of the neighboring school, where Eric’s memorial scholarship has sponsored students. We had a meaningful chat. I remembered most of the names I need to today! I got a bit of help with a couple. One is the evangelist who is the father of a special needs boy that we sponsor in school. How good to see them. Richie is increasing in capability, and they are so grateful for the sponsorship. The father is going to try to visit me on Wednesday.
Then I walked back with two of the Form 4 (10th grade equivalent) girls from MGLSS, coming back to school from the market. I’m unknown to most of these students, so it was nice to just chat with them. I did say I used to teach there and that the matron of the school was my former student.
The day isn’t over yet. Ciwila invited us over for dinner with her family. We had a nice meal, but I had to warn her that I wouldn’t be able to each much as we had two meals in the afternoon. She was so gracious. We watched a bit of the Tanzanian news with them, and I was able to get a pulse of the upcoming elections, some land disputes, and other national current events.
What a full day!
With blessings,
Beth